National
Parks - Almeria - Cabo de Gata
Cabo de Gata information
Cabo de Gata - Níjar National Park
The area to be described in the following section is a cocktail
of beaches, cliffs, sea and light, combined in perfect harmony.
If there is something besides these four features which calls
the attention, it is the lack of crowds and the wildness of
the landscape.
To the east of Almería, after passing El Alquián,
a traditional fishing port, Retamar and Torre García,
where the Romans first salted fish in the factory whose remains
can still be seen, we enter the Cabo de Gata - Níjar
National Park. As a taster of things to come in this very special
park, the Reserve area of "Las Amoladeras" houses
the Visitor Centre. Passing along a beautiful road between
the Salinas Natural Site on one side and the Mediterranena
on the other, we reach the Site´s bird observation post.
This place is of great ecological importance, with a flamingo
population which reaches up to 2,400 examples.
The contrast begin: the up-to-now straight road begins to
snake in often tight bends, the superb flat beaches of San
Miguel and la Almadraba move on to often steeply-dropping
beaches, and the peace and quiet of the flamingoes, golden
dunes and whitewashed arquitecture of San Miguel de Cabo de
Gata (with its echoes of Africa), are replaced by the high
cliffs worn away by the violence of the sea. The lighthouse
and vantage point of Cabo de Gata appear before us; 150 metres
below, the sea strikes against and wears down the rocks. In
the midst of the seaspray, the Mermaid´s Reef stands
dark and ghostly. The south gives way to the east, and the
coastline begins to climb north. Before stands the "Vela
Blanca" watchtower against the backdrop of the Mediterranean.
The track which leads from here to San José is prohibited,
so we therefore make our way back to the main road around
the Sierra. San José is the most important town within
the Park area, after Carboneras. It is a fair-sized whitewashed
town with an enormous beach, two coves and a well-implanted
tourist infraestructure. Its marina, sheltered by the cliffs
gives lovers of the sea the chance to practice many different
water sports.
From San José, after going inland to visit Níjar,
we pass numerous routes down to the sea leading to picturesque
spots. This is a diver´s paradise.
Los Escullos, a small fishing village at the foot of a little
beach conserves a recently restored Castle. A few kilometres
to the north, La Isleta del Moro, is a welcome sight, with
its palm grove in the foreground, and beyond, the whitewashed
village spread out over various crags, one being a islet,
all set against the intense blue Mediterranean sky. The fishing
port and an adequate touristic offer call for a stop off here.
The road now moves among a different, drier landscape, inland
towards Rodalquilar, a former mining village vilage. Walking
along the coast, or from the sea, one finds natural pools,
fascinating coves and caves hued from the rock, old dens for
monk seals. Some of the cabes contain amethyst.
At Las Negras, another small village within the Park, a campsite
close to the sea serves as shelter for nature lovers. A boat
service is available to take you to the San Pedro cove.
The uneven clifftops mean that the visitor to Agua Amarga
has to take the round about route. Set amongst high cliffs,
the centre of the village looks out over its promenade to
a family beach with makeshift beach bars and sailing craft
catering to a gentle, non-crowded tourism.
Rising to a small plain, La Mesa Roldán is the last
development within the Park before arriving Carboneras.
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