Castles of Cordoba — the Alcazar, Calahorra and Almodovar

Cordoba sits on the Guadalquivir with a long list of strongholds: Roman and Muslim cores, Christian rebuilds, and houses that stayed with noble families into modern times. The visitor from the Costa del Sol does not need all of them. In the city the two names that matter are the Alcazar of the Christian Kings and the Calahorra tower at the far end of the Roman bridge. Outside the city the castle that earns the drive is Almodovar del Rio, on its own hill above the river.

West of Cordoba, before you reach the palace-city of Medina Azahara, stands the fifteenth-century monastery of San Jeronimo, with a Gothic courtyard. North toward Los Pedroches the road climbs the old pass to the plateau: El Vacar, Belmez, Belalcazar and Madroniz. Those last keeps are a long day. Related: Cordoba.

*Book the Alcazar in busy months. Almodovar keeps its own ticket and hours. San Jeronimo is not the same visit as Medina Azahara.

Words you will meet

  • Alcazar of the Christian Kings — the fourteenth-century fortress-palace by the river in Cordoba. Later it housed the Inquisition. The gardens and baths are the visit.
  • Calahorra — the tower on the far bank of the Guadalquivir, facing the Roman bridge. Mudejar work of the fourteenth century.
  • Los Pedroches — the high country north of Cordoba, the old route toward the Castilian plateau. Belalcazar sits there.

Cordoba city: Alcazar and Calahorra

The Alcazar of the Christian Kings stands beside the river, a short walk from the Mosque-Cathedral. Alfonso XI rebuilt it in the fourteenth century. The Catholic Monarchs used it; the Inquisition sat here for centuries afterwards. What you walk now are the courtyards, the baths and the terraced gardens. It is a palace-fortress, not the caliphal mosque.

Cross the Roman bridge and you meet the Calahorra, a compact Mudejar tower that once guarded the far bank. The rooms inside are small; the point is the position and the view back to the city. Do the Alcazar first. Add the tower if you are already on the bridge.

  • Alcazar of the Christian Kings — map
  • Tower of La Calahorra — map

Almodovar del Rio and San Jeronimo

Almodovar is the castle people drive out of Cordoba to see. It sits on a steep hill over the Guadalquivir with eight towers. The site is old — Roman underneath, a Muslim fortress from the eighth century, rebuilt by the Christians. Alfonso XI worked on it in the fourteenth century. Between 1901 and 1936 Rafael Desmaissieres, Count of Torralva, restored it as a romantic stronghold. The silhouette is what you come for. The seventh season of Game of Thrones used it for Highgarden and parts of Casterly Rock; that is a curiosity, not the reason the hill was fortified.

San Jeronimo de Valparaiso stands west of the city, on the way toward Medina Azahara. It is a fifteenth-century Hieronymite monastery with a Gothic courtyard. Columbus is sometimes mentioned in its later story; the building you visit is the cloister and church. Pair it with Almodovar only if you have a car and a full afternoon. It is not a substitute for the Alcazar.

  • Castle of Almodovar — map
  • Monastery of San Jeronimo — map

North to Los Pedroches

The road toward Espiel follows the old pass onto the plateau. Before the town, the castle of El Vacar is a caliphal ruin — walls and a footprint, not a furnished palace. Belmez, further on, is a hill keep that mattered again in the Peninsular War and in the clashes between Riego’s liberals and the royalists in the 1820s. You climb for the view and the outline.

Belalcazar is the northern prize: a fifteenth-century fortress with a tall keep that still reads as a noble house. Madroniz is the neighbouring stronghold. Both sit in Los Pedroches, a long way from the Mosque-Cathedral. Make them a separate day from Almodovar. They do not belong in the same morning as the city Alcazar.

  • Castle of El Vacar — map
  • Castle of Belmez — map
  • Fortress of Belalcazar — map
  • Fortress of Madroniz — map

How to get there from Malaga

Cordoba is about two hours from Malaga on the A-45, or about the same on the high-speed train. The Alcazar and the Calahorra are then a walk through the old town. Almodovar del Rio is a short drive west along the river. A hire car from Malaga Airport is the practical way to add Almodovar and San Jeronimo. A private transfer can take you to a hotel in Cordoba; the northern castles still need a car.

Car hire

Car hire: the flexible option

From Malaga Airport or the Costa del Sol you can reach Cordoba in a morning and walk the Alcazar. The same car covers Almodovar in the afternoon. Belalcazar is a different day, north into Los Pedroches.

Hire a car at Malaga Airport
Private transfer

Taxi or private transfer

Door to door from Malaga Airport or your Costa del Sol hotel to Cordoba. A same-day return works for the Alcazar and the Calahorra. Stay overnight if you want Almodovar as well.

Book a transfer

*No credit-card details or advance payment are needed to request a quote. Cancellation is free. Book ahead in high season to avoid price rises and to secure the car or group size you need.

Other options

AVE and Avant trains run from Malaga Maria Zambrano to Cordoba in about an hour to an hour and a half. From the airport take the suburban train or a bus to Maria Zambrano first. Cordoba station is a short taxi or city bus from the Alcazar and the bridge. Book both directions in busy months.

ALSA coaches also run Malaga–Cordoba. They are usually cheaper and slower than the high-speed train. From Fuengirola, Torremolinos or Marbella go into Malaga first, then north.

City buses cover the centre. They will not take you to Almodovar or Belalcazar. Buses toward Almodovar del Rio exist but are infrequent for a castle visit with a return the same afternoon. Los Pedroches needs a hire car.

Practical tips

  • Do the Alcazar and the Calahorra on the same walk through the river quarter.
  • Almodovar is the castle outside the city. Give it its own slot; it is not a ten-minute stop.
  • San Jeronimo sits near the Medina Azahara road. Check opening days before you detour.
  • Belalcazar is the keep worth the northern drive. El Vacar is a ruin beside the road.
  • Do not try the Mosque-Cathedral, the Alcazar, Almodovar and Belalcazar in a single day from Malaga.

Frequently asked questions about Cordoba’s castles

What should I see first?

The Alcazar of the Christian Kings and the Calahorra, in the city. Almodovar del Rio is the castle to add if you have a car.

Is the Alcazar the same as the Mosque-Cathedral?

No. The Mosque-Cathedral is the great mosque with the church inside it. The Alcazar is the Christian fortress-palace a short walk away, with gardens and baths.

Why is Almodovar famous?

It is a complete hill castle over the Guadalquivir, restored in the early twentieth century. Game of Thrones filmed there; the building is older than the series.

Can I see San Jeronimo and Medina Azahara together?

They lie on the same side of the city. They are different sites and keep different tickets. Check both opening times.

Is Belalcazar close to Cordoba?

No. It is in Los Pedroches, well north of the capital. Treat it as its own day, not an extra after the Alcazar.

How long is the train from Malaga?

About an hour to an hour and a half on AVE or Avant. From the station the Alcazar is a short taxi or city bus. Almodovar still needs a car or a local bus.