Three roads branch out from Gibraltar. One towards San Roque, Gaucín and Ronda. Another towards Tarifa, Vejer and Chiclana and a third towards Estepona, Marbella, Ojén and Antequera. Merchandise was manifold and multicoloured, but tobacco and textiles were the most coveted. Ideas, fashion and news circulated along with them. The tobacconist and the protection of the Catalan textile industry, to the detriment of Andalusia, were at the back of that exchange that, with variants, continued up to few decades ago. No gift was more appreciated by a woman than a length of material for a dress and no tobacco was ever as famous as the imported kind. The ranks of these smugglers fed on adventurers, go-getters and also followers of Espartero, who had fled after the civil war of 1844.
Merchandise was stocked in Gibraltar, a rock of such irregular shape that it is impossible to see the whole of it from a short distance. The fleet of merchant boats that sailed the Mediterranean would drop anchor here, forced to wait for an east wind, without which no boat could cross the Straits. Many villages and towns lived the smuggling fever: Chiclana, town of springs and thermal baths; Gaucín, west of Sierra Bermeja, curling up between the Genal and Guadiazo rivers, in the foothills of Sierras del Hacho and bordering a deep gorge from whose platform a glimpse of Africa can be caught; Vejer, knitted into a net of Moorish alleys and inhabited by the “cobijadas” or sheltered, women who up to only a few years ago, covered their faces. And from Vejer to Ojén; and from there, crossing mountainous land, to the mountain pass La Trocha from where Gibraltar can be seen, cut out on the horizon over the blue background of the Straits.
This route takes you through the picturesque towns of San Roque, Gaucín, and Ronda. Each town has its own unique charm and historical significance, making it a fascinating journey through the heart of Andalusia.
In the early 1900s, female smugglers known as "matuteras" travelled on steam trains between San Roque and Ronda, peddling their contraband wares. These women risked their lives to transport goods, often hiding them in their clothing or luggage. The train line, engineered by Brit John Morrison and built by the Algeciras (Gibraltar) Railway Company Ltd, was first opened in 1890 and became a vital route for smuggling activities.
Travel along the coast from Tarifa to Vejer and Chiclana. This route offers stunning coastal views and a glimpse into the rich history of smuggling in the region.
In the 19th century, Vejer de la Frontera was a key location for smuggling activities. The town's strategic position made it an ideal spot for smugglers to hide and transport goods. One famous story tells of a local smuggler who used the narrow, winding streets and hidden alleys of Vejer to evade capture. The smuggler's knowledge of the town's layout allowed him to outsmart the authorities and continue his illicit trade for many years.
In the early 20th century, Estepona and Marbella were key locations for smuggling activities along the Costa del Sol. Smugglers would use the secluded beaches and hidden coves to transport goods, evading the authorities. One notable story involves a group of smugglers who used a network of tunnels beneath the town of Ojén to hide their contraband. These tunnels, originally built for mining, provided the perfect cover for their illicit activities.
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