Flying Visit to Alhama by Bike – Washington Irving Route

This alternative stage leaves Loja and heads south-east into the foothills of the Sierra de Alhama, Tejeda and Almijara. Instead of continuing directly towards Montefrío or Granada, the route crosses the Genil and follows a quieter path through agricultural land and riverside valleys to reach Alhama de Granada, one of the most evocative towns on the fringes of the old Nasrid kingdom.

Alhama was highly prized by the Kingdom of Granada for its strategic position and its thermal springs. The final approach and the town itself reward the detour with a strong sense of history and a dramatic setting above the river gorge.

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Stage highlights

  • Alternative south-east route from Loja
  • Crossing of the Genil and the Cacín rivers
  • Passage through Moraleda de Zafayona and Santa Cruz del Comercio
  • Arrival at the historic thermal town of Alhama de Granada
  • Dramatic gorge and views around the town

The route in detail

Leaving Loja towards the Sierra de Alhama

From Loja the route initially follows the same path used on the stage towards Huétor Tájar, heading for the neighbourhood of La Esperanza. Beyond the old school the road continues among irrigation channels and the fertile lands of Huétor Tájar before crossing the Arroyo Milanos and entering Villanueva de Mesía.

From here the itinerary diverges. After crossing the Genil the route looks for the Cacín river and follows its banks among cornfields, olive and poplar groves and occasional caper plantations. This leads to Moraleda de Zafayona (the old Campo de las Fuentes or Fa al Uyun), once the boundary between the lands of Granada and Loja.

Through agricultural land and pasture

Beyond Moraleda the landscape mixes the cultivated valley floor with higher livestock pasture as the route heads towards Monte Horniceros. After a series of gentle hills the Camino de los Llanos is joined, leading between orchards and vegetable gardens through Buenavista. The Alhama river is crossed and the district of Valenzuela is passed.

Continuing along the river and through Santa Cruz del Comercio, the route reaches the junction with the Torre Solana path. Here it turns west towards the thermal baths that give Alhama its name.

Rural road approaching Alhama de Granada

Arrival in Alhama de Granada

Alhama was one of the most valued and most mourned towns of the old Kingdom of Granada. It guarded the rear of the kingdom and the route towards the port of Malaga. The 14th-century traveller Ibn Battuta described it as “a small town which has a wonderfully placed and well-constructed mosque. Here there are hot springs to be found on the banks of the river, about a mile from the village and with separate bathing areas for men and women.”

The town still shows its history clearly: walls and fortifications, small squares, the Casa de la Inquisición, the old mosque and the Hospital de la Sangre. Beyond the historic centre the flour mills along the river and the deep gorge that cuts through the land remain among the most striking features of the site.

How to reach the start of this stage

This alternative stage begins in Loja. Most cyclists start from here after arriving on a previous stage or by travelling directly from the Costa del Sol.

Car hire

Car hire

Convenient for reaching Loja from Malaga Airport or the Costa del Sol, especially if you are carrying a bicycle.

Hire a car at Malaga Airport
Private transfer

Private transfer

Direct transfer from Malaga Airport or your hotel to Loja, with vehicles that can carry bikes.

Book a transfer

Other options

Regular buses connect Malaga, Antequera and Granada with Loja. From the Costa del Sol the usual combination is a train or bus to Antequera or Granada, then a local service to Loja.

Practical tips for this stage

  • This is an alternative / side stage rather than part of the main sequential route. Plan your return or onward connection in advance.
  • The terrain is generally moderate, with a mix of valley tracks and gentle hills.
  • Alhama de Granada has thermal baths and a dramatic gorge — allow time to explore the town and the river area.
  • Carry sufficient water between villages, especially in warmer months.
  • A gravel or touring bike remains the most suitable choice for the mix of surfaces.