From Loja to Montefrio by Bike – Washington Irving Route

Leaving Loja

Loja’s importance is still visible in its walls, towers, wells and fortress. Although local legend links its foundation to Tubal, grandson of Noah, its real significance comes from its position as the key to Granada and the gateway to the Vega. Iberians, Phoenicians, Romans and successive Muslim dynasties all left their mark here. The town was finally handed over by Boabdil to Ferdinand and Isabel in 1486, an early sign of the end of the Nasrid kingdom.

Before leaving, it is worth climbing to the fortress for the views over the town and the surrounding watchtowers (Martilla, Agicampe, Campo Albor and Río Frío).

Along the Genil valley to Huétor Tájar

Although Granada is already visible across the broad Vega, the route turns north-east into the southern part of the Los Montes region. Leaving Loja by the path that leads to the neighbourhood of La Esperanza, the road begins to follow the river among poplars, riverside vegetation and asparagus plantations. The valley then opens out around the town of Huétor Tájar (the old Wata Tahara), surrounded by farmsteads watered by streams and irrigation channels.

Towards Villanueva de Mesía and the olive country

Leaving Huétor Tájar the route heads for the Arroyo Milanos, which is forded just before joining the path to Villanueva de Mesía. From here the road descends into the Vega de las Viñas while Cerro de la Moya comes into view — a hill that has yielded archaeological remains from the Bronze Age through to the Middle Ages.

Riverside vegetation gradually gives way to olive groves that dominate the landscape as far as Tocón. From Tocón the continuous climb begins on the western slopes of the Sierra de Parapanda.

The final climb to Montefrío

The route follows the course of the Arroyo de los Molinos as the landscape closes in through a narrow valley of high cliffs. This is the prelude to the steepest section of the day. The climb is sustained and demanding, but from the top the reward is immediate: Montefrío spreads out below the church of La Villa.

The church, designed by Diego de Siloé on the site of a former mosque, stands above the white houses that fill the valley. The view is one of the most memorable on the entire Washington Irving route and fully justifies the effort of the ascent.