From Antequera to Loja by Bike – Washington Irving Route

Leaving Antequera

The stage begins after passing the Arco de los Gigantes and the Collegiate Church. Antequera’s long succession of cultures — Iberian, Roman, and the successive Islamic dynasties that controlled the city — still gives the town an intimate, welcoming character that continues to be felt in the villages along the way.

From the centre the route follows the Camino de las Huertas. To the right the low hill that holds the Dolmens of Menga, Viera and El Romeral is clearly visible. Soon the Guadalhorce is crossed and the distinctive silhouette of the Peña de los Enamorados appears ahead, with the village of Cartaojal at its foot.

Towards Archidona

Cartaojal is left by crossing the Arroyo de Carmona. The path continues between olive groves and holm-oak woods, with Cerro del Condestable temporarily hiding Archidona from view. Once around the hill the whole town becomes visible, set high on the Sierra de los Tres Picos (also known as the Dracia).

The climb is steady rather than extreme, but it is the most demanding section of the day. The Peña de los Enamorados remains in sight for much of the way; according to local legend it was here that the lovers Tazgona and Tello chose to end their lives rather than be separated. After crossing the Moheda stream the final ascent leads into Archidona.

Archidona and Villa Alta

Archidona has a long and complex history. It gave shelter both to the Emir Abd al-Rahman, who brought splendour to the Umayyad Caliphate, and to the rebel Umar ibn Hafsun. A further short climb reaches Villa Alta, from where the whole Vega of the Genil opens out below. The medieval walls, towers and gates still convey the strategic importance of the site, and the orientation of the older churches and former mosques towards the east remains noticeable.

From Archidona to Loja

Leaving from Plaza Ochavada, the route follows the back streets of what was once the capital of the Cora of Rayya and then joins a path running close to the main road towards Loja. The landscape opens into the Dehesa de los Montes, a mix of holm oaks, olive groves and occasional cypresses. Smooth hillocks offer wide views; the Hacho mountain, the Sierra de Loja and the town of Loja itself gradually come into sight between them.

The small village of Santa Bárbara is passed, followed by a medieval bridge. Paths and short stretches of road alternate until the Fuente Santa is reached — a fountain that has provided water for travellers since the 16th century. Shortly afterwards the route arrives in Loja, the historic Madina Lawsa described by the local writer Ibn al-Jatib.