Cuevas del Almanzora: history, inhabited caves and how to get there from Malaga
Cuevas del Almanzora is one of those places in eastern Almeria that pleasantly surprises visitors. Nestled between the Almanzora river valley and a coastline of more than 14 kilometres of beaches and coves, the town enjoys a stable climate with most rainfall falling between October and April. Combining rich history, unique cave dwellings and quiet beaches is straightforward here – and it is easily reachable from Malaga.
Along the Autovia del Mediterraneo (A-7) the distance is around 300 kilometres. The drive takes about three hours and passes through the varied landscapes of the Costa Tropical and inland Almeria. For anyone looking for something different from the better-known resorts of the Costa del Sol, Cuevas del Almanzora makes an excellent choice: living history, troglodyte architecture, a 16th-century castle housing several museums, and a still relatively unspoilt stretch of coast.
Whether you plan a day trip or a short stay, if you want to experience culture, nature and the sea in one go, Cuevas del Almanzora deserves a place on your route through eastern Andalucia.
*Museum opening times and guided visits may change. We recommend checking the official sources before your visit.
History of Cuevas del Almanzora
The Almanzora valley has witnessed almost every major Mediterranean civilisation. Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Iberians, Romans, Visigoths and, for nearly eight centuries, Andalusi culture all left their mark here. The name of the town itself recalls the many caves that served as shelter and home over the centuries.
In 1488, during the Granada War, Christian forces captured the fortress of Cuevas. The largely Muslim population was forced to convert. These “New Christians” lived for a long time under difficult conditions, which led to uprisings. Although the expulsion of the Moriscos (former Muslims who had converted to Christianity) was ordered, many remained in the area, as contemporary documents show.
From 1507 the territory formed part of the Marquisate of the Velez. In the 16th century the present Castillo del Marques de los Velez was built on the remains of a Nasrid tower. The real economic boom came in the 19th century with the discovery of rich silver-bearing galena deposits in the Sierra Almagrera. For decades Cuevas del Almanzora was one of the most important mining centres in Europe. The decline of mining and emigration in the 1930s brought a setback, until agriculture and tourism revived the town from the late 20th century onwards.
What to see and do in Cuevas del Almanzora
Castillo del Marques de los Velez and its museums
The town’s landmark is the Castillo del Marques de los Velez, a 16th-century fortress complex declared a Bien de Interes Cultural (cultural heritage site of national importance) in 1985. Organised around a parade ground, it comprises three main elements: the Torre del Homenaje (a keep of Nasrid origin with remarkable historical graffiti from the 16th to 19th centuries), the Palacio del Marques and the Casa de la Tercia.
The Palacio del Marques houses the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Antonio Manuel Campoy, one of the most interesting art collections in Andalucia. It holds around 400 works by artists such as Picasso, Miro, Tapies, Barcelo, Solana and Revello de Toro, as well as the outstanding Sala Goya with a collection of prints by the Aragonese master (including the series Los Disparates and La Tauromaquia).
The Casa de la Tercia contains the municipal library, the Archaeological Museum (with finds from the Fuente Alamo site and the El Argar culture) and temporary exhibition spaces. Admission to the complex is usually free or very modest, depending on the exhibition.
Cuevas de Calguerin: the troglodyte landscape
Barely two kilometres from the town centre lies the Terrera de Calguerin, the largest concentration of cave dwellings in the Almanzora valley. More than 300 caves carved into the rock can be found here, some with up to five levels one above the other. Many have been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and a number are still used today as homes or rural accommodation.
The landscape recalls formations in Cappadocia or Petra: white façades, chimneys emerging from the hillside and paths at different heights. It is one of the most distinctive sights in the municipality and helps explain the origin of the name Cuevas del Almanzora.
In the same area you will find the Cueva-Museo, a restored cave dwelling that shows how life was lived in these homes in the mid-20th century, with household utensils, furniture and traditional tools.
Other museums and heritage
- Museo Alvarez de Sotomayor: dedicated to the local poet and writer Jose Maria Alvarez de Sotomayor, with his personal library and a reconstruction of his surroundings.
- Gallery and Sala Goya: within the castle complex, housing the permanent collection of prints.
- Villaricos archaeological site and necropolis: one of the most important Phoenician sites on the Iberian Peninsula. Visits are usually arranged by prior appointment through the Tourist Office.
- Church of Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion and other historic houses in the old town.
Mining heritage and natural surroundings
The ruins of the old mines in the Sierra Almagrera, the foundries and the steam engine still preserved near Los Lobos bear witness to the 19th-century mining boom. The village of El Arteal grew up around this activity. Today several walking routes combine industrial history and landscape (Ruta de las Fundiciones, paths to Pico Tenerife or the Cuevas del Almanzora reservoir).
The reservoir has become an interesting wetland area, ideal for walks, birdwatching and water sports. The coastline offers wide beaches such as Quitapellejos, Palomares and Villaricos, as well as smaller coves like Cala Panizo or Cala de los Dolores.
How to get to Cuevas del Almanzora from Malaga
The most convenient and flexible way to reach Cuevas del Almanzora from Malaga or anywhere on the Costa del Sol is by car. The distance is approximately 298–310 kilometres along the Autovia del Mediterraneo (A-7) heading east. The journey takes around three hours, depending on traffic and any stops. The route is straightforward: follow the A-7 as far as the Vera area and then take the A-332 towards Cuevas del Almanzora.
If you prefer not to drive, there is a bus service (usually with a change in Almeria) or you can book a private transfer from the airport or your accommodation.
The map below shows the road route from Malaga-Costa del Sol Airport to Cuevas del Almanzora:
Car hire: the most flexible option
With a hire car you can explore at your own pace, stop at viewpoints along the Costa Tropical, reach the beaches of Villaricos or Palomares and follow the mining and cave routes without depending on public transport timetables.
Hire a car at Malaga Airport
Taxi or private transfer: maximum comfort
Ideal for families, travellers with luggage or anyone who prefers to arrive relaxed. You can book a private transfer from Malaga Airport or from your accommodation on the Costa del Sol straight to Cuevas del Almanzora.
Transfer from Malaga Airport
*No credit card details or advance payments are required. We recommend booking with sufficient notice.
Other transport options
There is a bus service from Malaga with a change in Almeria (operators include ALSA). The total journey usually takes more than four and a half hours. Once in Cuevas del Almanzora the town centre is compact and easy to explore on foot. For the coastal villages (Villaricos, Palomares) or the caves of Calguerin a hire car or local taxi is more practical.
Practical tips
- The best time to visit Cuevas del Almanzora is spring and autumn, when temperatures are pleasant and you can comfortably combine museums, caves and the beach.
- Book guided visits to the Villaricos necropolis in advance and check the opening hours of the castle and the Museo Antonio Manuel Campoy (usually closed on Mondays).
- Wear comfortable, sturdy shoes for the caves of Calguerin: the ground is uneven and there are slopes.
- Combine the cultural visit with an afternoon on the beach at Quitapellejos or Villaricos – both are only a few minutes’ drive from the centre.
- Try the local cuisine: produce from the Almanzora valley, fresh fish from the coast and traditional dishes from the former mining area.
- In summer take sun protection and plenty of water, especially if you walk around the reservoir or in the Sierra Almagrera.
Frequently asked questions about Cuevas del Almanzora
How long does it take to get to Cuevas del Almanzora from Malaga?
By car on the A-7 the distance is about 298–310 kilometres and the journey takes around three hours, depending on traffic. It is the quickest and most flexible way from the Costa del Sol.
Is a day trip from Malaga to Cuevas del Almanzora worthwhile?
Yes, if you set off early. You can spend the morning at the castle and museums, visit the caves of Calguerin mid-morning and enjoy the afternoon on one of the beaches or by the reservoir. With a hire car the outing is perfectly feasible.
Can you visit the caves of Calguerin freely?
The area is freely accessible and good for walking. Some caves are still inhabited, so please respect residents’ privacy. The Cueva-Museo has set opening hours and is the best way to see the interior of a traditional cave dwelling.
Is there an entrance fee for the Castillo del Marques de los Velez?
Access to the complex and most of the museum spaces is usually free or very inexpensive. Check current opening times and any special exhibition charges with the Tourist Office or on the museum website.
Do you need a hire car to visit Cuevas del Almanzora?
It is not essential if you only want to see the town centre and the castle. However, if you plan to reach the caves of Calguerin, the beaches of Villaricos or Palomares, the reservoir or the mining routes, a hire car or local taxi is much more practical. Local public transport is limited.
What beaches are near Cuevas del Almanzora?
The municipality has more than 14 kilometres of coastline. Recommended beaches include Quitapellejos, Palomares and Villaricos, plus smaller coves such as Cala Panizo or Cala de los Dolores. They combine well with the cultural sights.
