Source of the River Aguasmulas: the Llanos de Arance valley and the cave beneath Las Banderillas

The Aguasmulas is a short tributary of the Sierra de Segura. It rises in a cave at the Recodo, at the foot of Las Banderillas — the limestone wall that closes the valley above —, flows for around eight and a half kilometres and joins the Guadalquivir by the Tranco Reservoir. It is not the same valley as the River Borosa: it lies on the other side of Coto Ríos, reached along the Llanos de Arance track.

From Cazorla, follow the A-319 past Arroyo Frío and the Torre del Vinagre visitor centre. After the turning for Coto Ríos, take the JF-7079 on the right towards Llanos de Arance campsite. Cross the Guadalquivir over Las Golondrinas bridge and leave the campsite behind. Park on the open ground before the bridge over the Aguasmulas or, if the forest barrier is open, by the Casa Forestal de los Bonales, a ranger's house with a spring.

The valley can be divided into three stretches. The first is short and almost flat, leading as far as a small weir. The second follows a wide track for about nine kilometres one way, reaching the viewpoint and the ruins of the Cortijo de La Fresnedilla, an old farmhouse. The third runs from those ruins to the source cave and the Cascada de los Melguizos waterfall: a narrow, unmarked path of around two kilometres. This last stretch is not the walk most visitors do from the campsite.

*After a dry winter, the Recodo cave may produce only a thin trickle, or no water at all. After heavy rain, loose stones can be washed onto the track and the river may cover parts of the path. These sections have to be crossed on foot, with the water reaching your ankles or higher.

The river and the valley

The Aguasmulas flows through pine woodland — black pine and Aleppo pine —, holm oaks and the occasional oak. Smaller streams join it from the sides; on maps they appear as Arroyo del Hombre, Aguamulillas and Arroyo de la Campana. For walkers, they are simply streams to cross or hear running beside the track. Early in the morning or during the week, you can often spot red deer and fallow deer. Birds of prey use the rock walls of Las Banderillas, the massif that comes into view at the far end of the valley as the track gains height.

Near the bridge are the remains of Molino de Eusebio, later converted into a fish farm. Further up, there are several weirs and a small dam. When the river is running high, the water spills over the edge and can be heard from the track. The wide track ends at a viewpoint above the steep drop. From there, you can see the limestone wall of Las Banderillas and, in the distance, the Piedras de Aguasmulas, the rocky bend where the water emerges.

The three stretches of the valley

As far as the first weir

From the bridge or from the Los Bonales ranger's house, the track runs alongside the riverbed. After two or three kilometres, you reach a weir and a small dam with a waterfall. The gradient is gentle and the surface is a wide forest track that is easy to follow. This is a good option for families with children or for anyone who simply wants a walk beside the river, in the shade of the pines and with the sound of the water nearby. There is a spring at Los Bonales; further up, on the track to the viewpoint, there is no reliable water tap.

Track to the La Fresnedilla viewpoint

The marked stretch follows the main track for about nine kilometres one way to a viewpoint and the ruins of the Cortijo de La Fresnedilla. The return journey is eighteen kilometres, taking around four or five hours at a comfortable pace. The track is wide and easy to follow, so you do not need a GPS: there are posts and the white-and-red markings of the long-distance trails that cross the park. In some places the surface is loose; after a storm there may be mud and puddles. Anyone used to walking for several hours should manage it without difficulty. It is not the Borosa gorge and there are no wooden walkways.

The viewpoint offers views of the Las Banderillas massif. The cortijo is an abandoned farmhouse. This is as far as most people get when they set off from the campsite thinking that the “nine kilometres” take them to the source.

From the farmhouse to the Recodo cave

From the ruins of La Fresnedilla onwards, it is no longer a track. The path becomes narrow and, in places, disappears among rocks and scrub, so it is worth downloading the route to your phone beforehand. There are still around two kilometres to the Cascada de los Melguizos — two parallel waterfalls when there is enough water — and the cave where the river rises. Wear footwear with good grip; in mist it is easy to stray from the route. If you are not used to narrow and indistinct mountain paths, turn back at the viewpoint: the views alone make the trip worthwhile.

Some walkers continue from the Recodo to the summit of Las Banderillas or to the source of the Borosa. That is a mountain crossing lasting several hours, not the walk described on this page.

Map of the track and campsite

How to reach the Aguasmulas valley

From Malaga to Cazorla, take the A-92 and A-44, or the A-45 via Antequera; that journey is explained on the town page. From Cazorla, it is about 40–50 minutes on the A-319 — the same road that leads to the Tranco — to the Llanos de Arance turning. The JF-7079 is narrow. There is only limited parking on the open ground by the bridge. The Los Bonales ranger's house is further into the valley; sometimes a barrier prevents vehicles from going any further, in which case you must leave the car before it.

Car hire

Car hire: the most flexible option

With a hire car in Cazorla, Arroyo Frío or Coto Ríos, you can drive into the valley in the morning and, if there is still enough daylight, stop at the Tranco on the way back. A normal car is fine as far as the bridge by the campsite. If you want to reach Los Bonales after rain, a vehicle with more ground clearance is more comfortable, as the dirt track can become uneven.

Hire a car at Malaga Airport
Private transfer

Taxi or private transfer

Transfer from the airport or the Costa del Sol to a hotel or campsite in Cazorla, Arroyo Frío or Llanos de Arance. If you do not hire a car, you can also book a taxi for a return trip to the valley on the same day. There is no scheduled bus service to the campsite and no bus stops at the Aguasmulas bridge.

Book a taxi or transfer

*No credit-card details or advance payment are required to request a quote. Cancellation is free. We recommend booking in advance in high season to avoid price increases and to make sure the car you need is available.

Other transport options

Coaches run to Cazorla from Úbeda or Jaén and, with a change, from Malaga or Granada. The Cazorla guide explains how the journey from Malaga works. None of these services follows the JF-7079 or stops at Llanos de Arance. If you are travelling without a car, the most practical option is to stay in Cazorla, Arroyo Frío or at the campsite and book a taxi for a return trip to the valley on the same day.

Practical tips

  • Park on the open ground before the Aguasmulas bridge or, if the barrier is open, by the Los Bonales ranger's house. The track is used by forestry vehicles and campsite guests, so a badly parked car can block the way through.
  • In August, the campsite and parking area fill up with visitors. If you want a space in the shade, leave Cazorla early.
  • Take water with you. There is a spring at the Los Bonales ranger's house. After that, on the climb to the viewpoint and along the path to the Recodo, there is no reliable water tap.
  • The track to the viewpoint is a long day's walk if you do the whole route. The stretch from the ruins to the cave is for walkers who are used to narrow paths and have the route on their phone.
  • After a storm, loose stones can be washed onto the track and the river may cover some sections. These have to be crossed on foot, with the water reaching your ankles or higher. A vehicle with more ground clearance is useful if you want to reach Los Bonales.
  • The river is not a supervised swimming area. If you want to cool off, you can use the pools beside the track or by the first weir. The water is very cold and there is no lifeguard.

Frequently asked questions about the Aguasmulas source

Do the nine kilometres reach the source?

No. Those nine kilometres one way are the wide track to the viewpoint and the ruins of the Cortijo de La Fresnedilla. The Recodo cave and the Cascada de los Melguizos waterfall are about two kilometres further up, on an unmarked and more difficult path.

How long does it take from Cazorla?

About 40–50 minutes on the A-319 to the Llanos de Arance turning, plus a few minutes on the JF-7079 to the bridge. The journey from Malaga to Cazorla is a separate stage: it usually takes more than two hours and is explained on the town page.

Can you do the walk with children?

As far as the first weir, yes: the path is wide and the gradient is gentle. The walk to the La Fresnedilla viewpoint is a long day for anyone used to walking for several hours. The final stretch, from the ruins to the cave, is not suitable for small children.

Where can you park?

On the open ground before the bridge over the Aguasmulas, past Llanos de Arance campsite, or by the Los Bonales ranger's house if the barrier is open. Do not park on the bridge or at the campsite entrance unless you are staying there.

Is there an entrance fee?

No. The valley is within the natural park and the path is free to use. The campsite only charges for overnight stays or use of its facilities.

When is the best time to visit?

Spring and autumn, when the river carries more water and the heat eases. In summer, set off very early: the track has no continuous shade. In winter, after snow or severe weather, the path to the Recodo can become slippery and sometimes impassable.