Tranco Reservoir and the walk from the Poblado: Cazorla’s inland sea

Tranco Reservoir — also known as Tranco de Beas — is the large reservoir in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas Natural Park. Here, the upper reaches of the Guadalquivir are held back between pine forests and mountain olive groves. From Cazorla, take the A-319 over the Puerto de las Palomas, down to the Empalme del Valle and then along the reservoir shore to the dam.

Right beside the dam stands the Poblado del Tranco. It is not an abandoned village: the settlement was built around 1930 for the workers involved in building the dam. Today, descendants of those families still live there, along with staff from the water authority and the power station. There are bars, a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the water and the Centro de Ocio y Turismo Activo with its jetty. The easiest walk in the area starts from the settlement: a track closed to motor traffic that follows the reservoir to the bridge over the Río Hornos.

You can combine the visit on the same or following day with the Parque de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral, a swim at the Charco del Aceite if you are coming via Villanueva del Arzobispo, or a detour to the Cerrada del Utrero on the way back to Cazorla. These are not part of the same walk: each has its own access and car park.

*The water level varies from year to year. During prolonged dry periods, river bends and remains of the former settlement of Bujaraiza may become visible. When the reservoir is full, the castle stands on an island.

The reservoir and the settlement

The project was planned in the early twentieth century to irrigate the La Loma area. Construction began around 1929–1930 and the dam was completed in 1944; the official opening took place in 1946. At the time, El Tranco was one of the largest reservoirs in Spain. The gravity dam is around 90 metres high and about 290 metres long along the crest. The hydroelectric power station is located at its foot.

The settlement of Bujaraiza disappeared beneath the water. In 1940 it was home to around three hundred people and had a church and a cemetery. Some of the families were relocated to a newly established settlement near Palma del Río. When the water level falls, remains of the former settlement can become visible on the reservoir bed. The castle of Bujaraiza stands on the island of Cabeza de la Viña and is particularly easy to see when the reservoir is full.

The settlement beside the dam once had a school, the San Rafael chapel, a small works store and a Guardia Civil post. Today it lies on the A-319, roughly halfway between Cazorla and Hornos de Segura. The settlement belongs to the municipality of Hornos, not Beas. In summer there are pedal boats and kayaks and, when the service is operating, a solar-powered boat also leaves from the jetty. Fishing is also common here. The reservoir is not a designated bathing area: signs at the dam prohibited swimming, the water is cold and the bottom is uneven.

The walk from the Poblado del Tranco

From the settlement, first follow the roadside along the reservoir until you reach a track closed to motor traffic. The path runs along the hillside, roughly following the contour line established when the dam was built. If you walk the full route, it ends at the bridge over the Río Hornos. It is a linear walk of around 8–10 km each way. Allow about four to five hours for the return journey at a leisurely pace, with very little ascent.

The route passes cortijos that were spared by the rising water, through Aleppo pine woodland and along different sections of the shore. From one viewpoint you get a good view across a large part of the reservoir. There is no need to walk all the way to the bridge: many walkers turn back after about an hour and a half, once they have enjoyed the main views.

Another marked route, the PR-A 193, starts at the junction of the A-319 and A-6202, by the widened area with the kiosks at the dam, and climbs towards Cañada Morales. It is around 7–8 km each way, moderately difficult, and passes the Chorreón, a small waterfall that drops towards the reservoir after rainfall. There is no spring along this route.

Things to see around the reservoir

Collado del Almendral Wildlife Park

At kilometre 59–60 of the A-319, at the far end of the reservoir, lies the Parque de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral. On signs and in local usage, it is also often referred to as the Parque cinegético. A tourist train takes you on a roughly five-kilometre route through an area of more than one hundred hectares, where red deer, fallow deer, mouflon and Spanish ibex live in a semi-wild environment. Afterwards, a walking route leads to viewpoints overlooking Bujaraiza Castle and to a bird-of-prey display. Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente filmed the deer rut here for the series El Hombre y la Tierra.

Booking is required. The park is usually closed on Mondays. Opening times and prices vary according to the season, so it is advisable to check the park's website on the day of your visit. Independent access on foot is not permitted.

Charco del Aceite and Fuente de los Cerezos

The Charco del Aceite — also known as Charco de la Pringue — is not directly beside the dam. It lies in the Sierra de las Villas, about six or seven kilometres along the A-6202 towards Villanueva del Arzobispo. There is a natural pool in the Guadalquivir, with a picnic area, a kiosk in summer and a bathing area with very cold water. According to local legend, the name is linked to a donkey carrying containers of oil that fell into the river.

Higher up in the same area is the controlled campsite at Fuente de los Cerezos, on the GR-247 Bosques del Sur long-distance route. It is suitable if you want to camp in a tent, but it is not a spring along the walk from the Poblado del Tranco.

If you have another day

On the way back to Cazorla, at the Empalme del Valle, you will find the Cerrada del Utrero and the Linarejos area: a short circular walk through the Guadalquivir gorge with a waterfall. Further along the A-319, the access road at Torre del Vinagre leads into the Río Borosa valley. El Yelmo above Hornos is another option for a day out: the summit is popular with paragliders and offers a fine view over the reservoir, but it is not part of this track. Near the shore are also the remains of La Cabañuela, an archaeological site associated with the earliest inhabitants of the sierra.

The reservoir from the water

How to reach Tranco Reservoir

From Málaga to Cazorla, take the A-92 and A-44, or the A-45 via Antequera; the different routes are described in the town guide. From Cazorla, it takes around 40–50 minutes along the A-319, continuing deeper into the natural park. Another approach is from Villanueva del Arzobispo via the A-6202. This route is particularly useful if you are coming from Úbeda or La Loma and want to stop at the Charco del Aceite before reaching the dam. There is no scheduled bus service that provides a practical connection to the dam.

Car hire

Car hire: the most flexible option

With a hire car in Cazorla or Arroyo Frío, you can drive to El Tranco in the morning, have lunch in the Poblado and make a detour to Collado del Almendral on the way back. The A-319 is narrow and winding: you do not need a 4x4 to reach the dam, although a vehicle with greater ground clearance can be useful on the side tracks, especially after rain.

Hire a car at Málaga Airport
Private transfer

Taxi or private transfer

You can book a transfer from the airport or the Costa del Sol to your hotel or campsite in Cazorla, La Iruela or Arroyo Frío. If you do not want to hire a car, you can also book a return transfer for the same day to the Poblado del Tranco or the Parque de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral. There is no scheduled bus service from the dam.

Book a taxi or transfer

*You do not need to enter credit-card details or make any payment in advance to book. Cancellation is free. In high season, we recommend booking in good time to avoid possible price increases and to make sure the vehicle you want is available.

Other transport options

There are bus services to Cazorla from Úbeda or Jaén and, with a change, from Málaga or Granada. The Cazorla guide explains how to organise the journey from Málaga. None of these services runs as far as the Poblado del Tranco or the far end of the reservoir. If you are travelling without a car, the most practical option is to stay in Cazorla or Arroyo Frío and arrange a taxi for the return journey on the same day.

Practical tips

  • Park at the Poblado del Tranco or in the widened area at the A-319 / A-6202 junction. Do not leave your car on the dam crest.
  • In August, both the reservoir area and the Charco del Aceite are very busy. Leave Cazorla early if you want to find a parking space and some shade.
  • The shore walk is easy but long if you complete the whole route. Take plenty of water with you: there is no spring along the PR-A 193.
  • During prolonged dry periods, the water level falls and the landscape changes. Do not walk onto the dry reservoir bed: the mud can be dangerous and restrictions apply.
  • At the Parque de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral, it is advisable to book in advance. The solar boat and pedal boats operate according to the season and water level.
  • Having a meal at the Poblado is a practical option after the walk. In winter, some kiosks are closed during the week.

Frequently asked questions about Tranco Reservoir

Is the Poblado del Tranco abandoned?

No. The settlement was built for the dam workers and is still inhabited today. There is a restaurant, kiosks and a recreation centre by the jetty. The settlement that disappeared beneath the water was Bujaraiza.

How long is the shore walk?

The linear track to the bridge over the Río Hornos is about 8–10 km each way. Allow around four to five hours for the return journey. You can turn back whenever you like: the walk is mainly about the views, and there is no need to reach the bridge.

Is swimming allowed in the reservoir?

El Tranco is not a designated bathing area. It is a working reservoir with a dam and a hydroelectric power station; signs at the dam prohibited swimming. The water is cold and the bottom changes with the water level. If you want to swim, the usual option is the Charco del Aceite, a recreation area on the Guadalquivir along the road to Villanueva del Arzobispo, rather than the area by the dam.

How long does it take from Cazorla?

Around 40–50 minutes along the A-319 to the Poblado del Tranco and the dam. The journey from Málaga to Cazorla is a separate stage and usually takes more than two hours. It is described in the town guide.

Do you need to book the Parque de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral?

Yes, particularly in spring, autumn and at weekends. It is the deer and fallow deer park at kilometre 60 of the A-319, also often known locally as the Parque cinegético. The visit is by tourist train; the area cannot be explored independently on foot. The park is usually closed on Mondays.

Can you see the flooded village?

When the water level is low, remains of the former settlement of Bujaraiza may become visible. The village was flooded when the reservoir was filled. The castle is easier to see when the reservoir is full, on the island of Cabeza de la Viña. Do not go down onto the dry reservoir bed to look for the ruins: the mud can be dangerous and restrictions apply.