Benamargosa: what to see and how to get there

Benamargosa lies inland in the Axarquia, beside the river of the same name and close to Velez-Malaga. Lemon, mango and avocado trees fill much of the valley, while narrow streets climb through the village between whitewashed houses, steps and small corners lined with plant pots.

A visit gives you time to see the 16th-century church, wander through the old neighbourhoods and try batycate, the village's avocado milkshake. Benamargosa also belongs to the Ruta del Sol y del Aguacate, or Sun and Avocado Route, which links several places in the Axarquia where subtropical fruit is grown.

A little history

Archaeological finds within the municipality show that the area has been inhabited since the Neolithic period, although the present village developed later. By the late 15th century, Benamargosa was a farming settlement associated with Comares. Agriculture and the roads leading inland encouraged people to settle in the valley.

Benamargosa came under the control of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella and Ferdinand, in 1487. Some Muslim residents remained after converting to Christianity and became known as Moriscos. They were later deported following the 16th-century rebellion, and new settlers arrived to take over the land and houses.

During the French occupation, the mayor was required to swear allegiance to Joseph I in 1810. The legend of the «pozo de los franceses», or Frenchmen's Well, dates from this period: according to local oral tradition, the bodies of French soldiers were thrown into it. In the 20th century, tobacco smuggling from Gibraltar earned the village the nickname «Gibraltar el Chico», or Little Gibraltar.

Agriculture also left a mark on the area's industrial buildings. Two sugar-cane mills once operated around Salto del Negro. One of them, the Ingenio de San Rafael, was later converted to flour production.

What to see in Benamargosa

Start at the church in the lower part of the village, then follow the streets uphill towards the old neighbourhoods of La Solana and Los Pechuelos.

• Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnacion: built in the 16th century on the site of an earlier mosque, the church has a nave, two aisles and an adjoining tower. Inside, look out for the ornate shrine housing the figure of Jesus of Nazareth. (View on the map)
• La Solana and Los Pechuelos: these neighbourhoods have narrow streets, steep slopes and steps with plant pots on the landings. Take your time exploring, as there is some uphill walking involved.
• Arco de la Huerta: this arch is a reminder of the structures used to carry irrigation water to the farmland in the valley.
• Puente de los Diez Ojos: the ten-arched bridge crosses the River Benamargosa, linking the village with the farmland on the opposite bank.
• Ingenio de San Rafael: roughly a kilometre from the village centre, beside the river, this mill was built in 1900 to produce sugar-cane syrup. From 1915 onwards, it was used exclusively for making flour. (View on the map)

The Sun and Avocado Route

This tourist route links Benamargosa with Rincon de la Victoria, Macharaviaya, Velez-Malaga, Benamocarra and Iznate. Along the way, coastal scenery gives way to inland orchards, where avocado and mango trees grow alongside citrus fruit.

If you are interested in traditional moscatel raisin production, you can combine your visit with a trip to Almachar or El Borge. Both villages belong to the nearby Ruta de la Pasa, or Raisin Route.

Walks around the village

Outside the village, paths through the valley take you into Benamargosa's farming landscape. The council lists walks such as the Ruta de la Corta, Ruta del Tinao and Ruta de la Fuente de la Gota. Check the route and difficulty before choosing one: they vary in length and ascent, and not all are short strolls.

Food and drink in Benamargosa

Olive oil, almonds and vegetables remain staples of the local kitchen, alongside the subtropical fruit grown in the valley. Village specialities and dishes shared with other parts of the Axarquia include:

• Batycate: a sweet avocado milkshake made with milk, sugar and cinnamon, also known as baticate or Baty Cate.
• Ajoblanco: a cold almond and garlic soup, often served with grapes or raisins.
• Gazpacho with salt cod: a thick preparation made with boiled potato, egg, onion, garlic, pepper, mayonnaise and salt cod.
• Tomato soup: made with a base of gently fried tomato, onion, garlic and pepper.
• Zoque de limón: chopped and dressed limón de pera, a local variety of lemon, and one of Benamargosa's characteristic dishes.
• Tortas de aceite: traditional sweet bakes made with oil, aniseed, cinnamon and almonds.
• Moscatel wine: part of the area's winemaking tradition.

Locally grown mangoes and avocados are also worth trying. In April, the Fiesta del Campo brings many of these specialities together at food stalls around the village.

Festivals in Benamargosa

• San Sebastián: the patron saint's day falls on 20 January, although the non-religious festivities may be moved to the following Saturday. The programme includes religious celebrations and music.
• Fiesta del Campo: usually held on a Sunday in April, this festival celebrates local farming and food. It has been recognised by Malaga's provincial council as a festival of particular tourism interest. Food stalls, tastings and musical performances fill much of the day.
• Feria de Agosto: the village's annual August fair usually takes place around the first weekend of the month, with daytime festivities, music and activities for different age groups.

The council publishes the dates and full programme each year.

How to get to Benamargosa from Malaga Airport

The drive from Malaga Airport to Benamargosa is roughly 60 kilometres and usually takes around an hour, depending on traffic. The usual route follows the A-7 towards Velez-Malaga, continues along the A-356 and takes the MA-3113 turn-off for Benamargosa.

By car

A hire car lets you combine Benamargosa with other Axarquia villages, such as Comares, Cutar or Almachar. You can choose your stops without having to plan around bus timetables.

Car hire Malaga airport

Taxi or private transfer

You can book a transfer from the airport to your accommodation in Benamargosa. This is a practical option if you are travelling with luggage or your flight arrives at a time when public transport connections are awkward.

Book a taxi or transfer

*No advance payment is required and cancellation is free. We therefore recommend booking ahead to secure your vehicle and price.

Bus and train

To travel from the airport by public transport, first head into Malaga. Take the C1 local train service (Cercanías) to Malaga María Zambrano, next to the bus station, then continue by bus towards Torre del Mar or Velez-Malaga. From there, services towards Almachar stop at Benamargosa.

Check connections and departure times for both your outward and return journeys with Alsa before making plans, particularly at weekends and on public holidays. Benamargosa has no railway station, so the final leg is by bus or taxi.

Tourist information