Totalan is a village in the Axarquia region of Malaga, set among hills near the coast, east of Malaga city. Its whitewashed houses and steep streets, the Cerro de la Corona dolmen and the paths linking the village with Moclinejo and La Cala del Moral make it possible to combine a village visit with walks in the surrounding countryside.
Hillsides, valleys and streams shape the landscape. Places to explore nearby include La Toma, beside the Totalan stream, and the Camino de la Fuente de la Teja. The village also forms part of the Raisin Route, an itinerary through six municipalities in the Axarquia with a tradition of vine growing and raisin production.
View of Totalan and its mountainous surroundings.
History of Totalan
Human settlement around Totalan dates back to prehistoric times, as shown by the Cerro de la Corona dolmen, also known as the Tumba del Moro, or ‘Moor’s Tomb’. Discovered and excavated in 1995, this collective burial site dates from the fourth to third millennium BC.
The Torre Salazar survives from the period of Moorish rule. This 11th-century tower stands near the Cortijo del Zarzo farmhouse. Its hilltop position allowed it to watch over the coastal strip as part of the area’s defensive network.
The village centre retains a layout of narrow, steep streets on the slopes of Cerro de El Ejido. One of its main buildings is Santa Ana church, founded in the 16th century and remodelled in the 17th, with a timber ceiling and red marble columns.
In the late 19th century, the phylloxera vine pest destroyed much of the vineyard area that supported the local economy. The agricultural crisis led to farmland being abandoned and residents moving to Malaga, where El Palo became one of the neighbourhoods in which people from Totalan settled.
Things to see in Totalan
A walk through the village centre introduces you to Totalan’s links with traditional singing, its streets and Santa Ana church. Outside the centre are the Torre Salazar and the Cerro de la Corona dolmen.
Antonio Molina square and monument: the square honours the actor and singer, whose parents came from Totalan and who spent part of his childhood and youth in the village. (View Antonio Molina square on the map)
Santa Ana church: its origins date back to 1515, although its present appearance results from a 17th-century remodelling. Inside, look out for the timber ceiling and the red marble columns separating its two aisles. (View Santa Ana church on the map)
Torre Salazar: this watchtower from the Moorish period was restored in 2009. From the hill where it stands, you can see Malaga Bay and part of the municipality of Totalan. (View Torre Salazar on the map)
Cerro de la Corona dolmen
The Cerro de la Corona dolmen is in the Los Baltasares area, around 600 metres from the village as the crow flies. The walking distance depends on the access path. Dating from the fourth to third millennium BC, this burial structure is one of the main surviving traces of prehistoric settlement in the municipality.
Excavations identified a collective burial of at least ten people, alongside pottery remains and stone tools. Among the approximately 4,200 bone fragments recovered were remains of both children and adults.
The elevated position of the hill offers views across the Totalan and Olias valleys, with the Mediterranean in the distance.
The village’s monuments and streets walk covers approximately one kilometre through the centre. It starts in Plaza de la Constitucion and takes you past the main buildings. The highest point is beside the football pitch, with views over the village, surrounding fields and the sea in the distance. Although short, the walk includes sloping streets.
Walking through Totalan’s streets and viewpoints.
Route from Totalan to Moclinejo
This route links Totalan with Moclinejo through the valleys and hillsides of the Axarquia. The route described in the municipal tourist guide is 12 kilometres each way, graded moderate, with an estimated walking time of three and a half hours one way. It is a linear route: returning along the same path means covering around 24 kilometres in total.
It is also suggested as a mountain biking route. In Moclinejo, you can combine the outing with a walk around the village and a visit to its church, built during the 16th and 17th centuries.
Route to La Cala del Moral beach
The route to La Cala del Moral follows the valley of the Totalan stream down to the coast. It is approximately 7.3 kilometres each way, with an estimated walking time of two hours one way. The return walk totals around 15 kilometres and four hours, excluding stops.
The tourist guide grades it as easy and includes it among the walking and mountain biking routes. The outward journey descends towards the sea, while the return involves climbing back up to Totalan, something to bear in mind when planning your outing.
A drive through the countryside around Totalan.
The Raisin Route
Totalan forms part of the Raisin Route, a scenic itinerary through the Axarquia that also includes Comares, Cutar, El Borge, Almachar and Moclinejo. It offers a way to visit several villages and explore the agricultural landscape associated with the Moscatel grape.
Among the vineyards are paseros, specially prepared beds where grapes are dried in the sun. The bunches remain spread out for several weeks, depending on the weather, until they become raisins.
Production involves manual work: the bunches are arranged and tended on the drying beds, then covered with tarpaulins when rain threatens. This work preserves traditional farming techniques that form part of the region’s landscape and culture.
Festivals in Totalan
Totalan’s calendar combines religious celebrations, cultural activities and a food festival dedicated to chanfaina.
Three Kings parade: the village holds its Three Kings parade on 5 January.
Holy Week: a notable tradition is the Good Friday procession, in which the figure of the crucified Christ is carried by women.
Horse Day and Livestock Fair: a traditional May celebration associated with horses and livestock farming.
Totalan Fair: usually held on the last weekend in May in honour of the village’s patron saint, the Virgen del Rosario, with music, activities and religious celebrations.
San Juan night: the night of 23–24 June is associated with traditional bonfires and the burning of effigies known as júas.
Cultural Week: held in October, with cultural activities, music and events for different age groups.
Chanfaina Festival: traditionally held on the last Sunday in November. Recognised by the province as a festival of special tourist interest, it combines tastings of the local dish with music and other activities.
Chanfaina is Totalan’s signature dish. Its basic ingredients are potatoes, olive oil, garlic, vinegar, bread and spices. There are versions with meat or blood sausage, as well as meat-free preparations. Its history as a meal for agricultural workers helps explain its continuing importance in the village’s cooking and festivals.
Other local dishes include maimones, a bread and vegetable soup; fried pumpkin; tomato soup; and gazpachuelo, a warm soup made with mayonnaise. Ajoblanco, a cold almond and garlic soup, is another familiar dish in the region.
Other dishes from Malaga’s cuisine that you may find in the area include migas, a dish made with bread, and ensalada malagueña, which combines potatoes, oranges and olives, usually with salt cod. Moscatel wines and raisins are also closely linked to the Axarquia’s agricultural tradition.
How to get to Totalan from Malaga
Totalan lies east of Malaga city, inland in the Axarquia. From Malaga Airport, follow the A-7 towards Almeria, then take the MA-3202 towards Totalan from the La Cala del Moral area. The journey is around 30 kilometres and can take approximately 35 minutes in light traffic.
A car makes it possible to combine the village with other places along the Raisin Route and plan outings without relying on bus timetables. You can also book a private transfer or take the M-161 bus from Malaga city.
Visiting Totalan with a hire car
A hire car allows you to visit Totalan and continue to other villages in the Axarquia. It is a practical option if you want to combine walking, local food and several stops along the Raisin Route.
You can book a transfer from the airport to your accommodation in Totalan. This allows you to make the journey without driving and is useful if you are travelling with luggage or prefer to go straight to your destination.
*No advance payment is required and cancellation is free. We therefore recommend booking ahead to secure your vehicle and rate.
Getting to Totalan by bus
The M-161 bus connects Malaga with Totalan via La Cala del Moral and the Rincón de la Victoria shopping centre. It departs from Malaga bus station on Paseo de los Tilos, and the full journey takes approximately an hour. The line is part of the Malaga metropolitan transport network and is operated by Nex Continental Holdings, S.L.U.
Services are limited, and some return journeys from Totalan terminate at the Rincón de la Victoria shopping centre. Before planning a day trip, check the M-161 timetable for both your outward and return journeys.
There is no direct bus from the airport to Totalan. To travel by public transport, you first need to get to Malaga city and connect with the M-161.
Driving route from the Malagacar premises near Malaga Airport to Totalan.
Tourist information for Totalan
Town hall: Calle del Real, 28, 29197 Totalán, Málaga, Spain.
Can you get to Totalan from Malaga by public transport?
Yes. The M-161 bus connects Malaga bus station with Totalan and takes approximately an hour. Check the outward and return timetables, as services are limited and some return journeys terminate at the Rincón de la Victoria shopping centre. From the airport, you need to travel to Malaga city first and connect there.
What footwear should you wear in Totalan and on its walking routes?
Comfortable shoes with good grip are recommended for exploring the village, as some streets are steep. For the routes to Moclinejo or La Cala del Moral, walking footwear suitable for uneven paths is preferable.
Where can you buy raisins from the Axarquia?
You can find them in Malaga’s markets and shops specialising in local produce. If you visit other villages along the Raisin Route, El Borge traditionally holds its Raisin Festival on the third Sunday in September, with tastings of raisins and other local specialities.
Is there rural accommodation in Totalan?
Yes, there are rural holiday homes to rent in Totalan and the surrounding area. You can also stay in Rincon de la Victoria or Malaga and visit the village on a day trip.
Where is the Cerro de la Corona dolmen?
It stands on a hill in the Los Baltasares area, around 600 metres from Totalan as the crow flies. This is not the walking distance, which depends on the access path.
